Fishing the Scottish Borders Salmon and Wild Brown Trout & Grayling:
- Neil Chalk
- Mar 19
- 14 min read
Salmon, Trout & Grayling Fishing on the Yarrow, Ettrick & The Tweed
Step out of the door at The Scullery and the sound of running water is never far away.
Directly in front of the cottage, Ladhope Burn tumbles down off the surrounding moorland, joined in the wooded glen by Hope Sike, which drops off of the hillside beyond Ladhope and together they carry on down through the pasture and into Yarrow Water, just a five-minute walk down the hill from Ladhope Farmhouse. It's one of those places where the landscape and the water feel completely inseparable, and where fishing isn't so much an activity as a natural extension of being here.
The Scottish Borders sits at the heart of some of Scotland's finest freshwater angling. The River Tweed, one of the great salmon rivers of the world, anchors the whole system, fed by a network of tributary waters that drain the surrounding hills and valleys. Yarrow Water flows down from the hills below The Scullery and, at about 15 minutes down the valley, meets Ettrick Water close to the old Sawmill at Philiphaugh. From there The Ettrick carries on to meet the Tweed on the far side of Selkirk, towards Galashiels. Whether you're after the thrill of an Atlantic salmon on a cold February morning, the delicate dance of a wild brown trout on a cool June afternoon, or the winter challenge of grayling as the frost settles on the hills, you'll find it all within easy reach.
This guide covers everything you need to know about fishing the waters closest to The Scullery, species by species, season by season.
"There are few places on earth where you can cast a line into a river and feel so completely connected to the wild. The Yarrow Valley is one of them."
Salmon Fishing in the Scottish Borders
The Atlantic salmon is the king of the river, and the Scottish Borders is one of the finest places in the world to pursue it. The River Tweed is consistently ranked among the top salmon rivers in Europe, and its tributaries — including Yarrow Water and Ettrick Water, which drain the hills and valleys around The Scullery — form a vital part of that ecosystem.
The Salmon Season
The River Tweed salmon season runs from 1st February to 30th November. What makes it particularly special is its autumn fishing. The Tweed is the only major Scottish river permitted to fish for salmon as late as 30th November, and October and November consistently produce some of the most extraordinary catches of the season as the great autumn runs push upriver.
The season is broadly broken into three periods, each with its own character:
• Spring (February to May): Early-season fishing on cold, clear water. Lower numbers of fish, but spring salmon are often the largest of the year. Tactics tend towards larger flies and slower retrieves. The river can be fining down after winter spates, and there is something deeply atmospheric about the first days of the season.
• Summer (June to September): The Tweed and its tributaries can run low and clear in summer, making fishing more challenging and requiring lighter tackle and smaller flies. Sea trout also run the rivers during this period, often best fished for at dusk and into darkness.
• Autumn (October to November): The undisputed highlight of the Tweed salmon calendar. Huge runs of fish can enter the system, the trees are gold and russet against the hills, and every beat on the Tweed is in demand. Grilse and multi-sea-winter salmon alike run the river in numbers. This is when the Borders fishing truly comes alive.
The Salmon Season Opening — Kelso
Every year, the official opening of the River Tweed salmon season is marked with a ceremony at Kelso. One of the most celebrated dates in the Scottish angling calendar. The Tweed Foundation, which manages the scientific monitoring and habitat enhancement of the entire Tweed system, organises and supports the opening ceremony, drawing anglers, landowners, riparian owners and fishing enthusiasts from across Scotland and beyond.
The ceremony typically takes place on or around 1st February and marks the moment the first legal cast of the season can be made on the river. It is a tradition that speaks to the deep cultural importance of the salmon to this part of Scotland. A fish that has shaped the landscape, the economy and the communities of the Borders for centuries.
The River Tweed Commission (RTC), established in 1807 and operating under the Scotland Act 1998 (River Tweed) Order 2006, is the statutory authority responsible for the protection and management of salmon, sea trout and other freshwater fish across the entire Tweed district. Its jurisdiction extends from the headwaters of the tributaries all the way to eight kilometres out to sea. The RTC employs a dedicated team of Fisheries Officers who enforce regulations and protect the stocks of fish that make this river system so remarkable.
Fishing the Scottish Borders for Salmon-
The Yarrow and Ettrick Waters.
The waters closest to The Scullery are Yarrow Water and over the hill to the next valley, Ettrick Water. Yarrow Water runs down the valley below Ladhope Farmhouse and, around 15 minutes from the cottage, the two waters meet close to the old Sawmill at Philiphaugh — a confluence set in beautiful, wooded valley scenery. Ettrick Water then carries on down through the lower valley and joins the River Tweed on the far side of Selkirk, towards Galashiels. Both waters carry salmon running up from the Tweed into the upper catchment during the season.
The Selkirk & District Angling Association (SDAA), established in 1861, manages salmon and sea trout fishing on sections of Yarrow & Ettrick Waters. The Association operates a strict catch and release policy for all fish species on its waters and runs a River Watch patrol to ensure compliance. Salmon and sea trout day permits for Ettrick Water are available at £25 per rod, with season permits also available for local residents. Permits can be purchased online or from The General Store, 36 Market Place, Selkirk. The salmon season on SDAA waters runs from 1st February to 30th November.
The Bowhill Estate, which occupies a spectacular position in the Ettrick Valley just a short drive from Ladhope and The Scullery, offers access to 12 miles of Ettrick Water with over 80 named pools divided across five distinct beats. The beats run from the upper March Pool at Crosslee all the way down to Meetings Pool — the Ettrick Water's historic confluence point — some of the most atmospherically named and scenically rewarding fishing water in Scotland. Beat prices run from £35 per rod in low season to £70 in high season. Booking is via the Borders Estate Office on 01750 23762 or through Fishpal.
The Best Beats and Where to Fish
For those visiting The Scullery, the following beats and locations offer the most accessible and rewarding salmon fishing in the area:
• Bowhill (Ettrick Water) — Beats 1 to 5 covering 12 miles from Crosslee March to Meetings Pool. Managed by the Buccleuch Estate. Mix of double bank fishing with 80 named pools. Ghillie available for guidance.
• Selkirk & District Angling Association (Ettrick Water) — Day and season permits covering accessible stretches through the Selkirk district. Catch and release only.
• Fishpal Tweed listings — The Fishpal platform (fishpal.com/scotland/tweed) acts as the main booking portal for many Tweed beats, from the lower river at Coldstream and Kelso all the way up into the upper catchment. Many proprietors offer single day rods as well as weekly packages.
• Border Esk (Langholm area) — For those willing to venture further, the Buccleuch Estate's Langholm beat on the Border Esk is available through the Bowhill Estate Office and offers a contrasting style of salmon river fishing.
A Note on Conservation
Salmon stocks across Scotland face significant pressure from climate change, agricultural run-off, and changing marine conditions. The Tweed Foundation — an environmental charity established by the RTC in 1983 — leads an extensive programme of biological monitoring, habitat enhancement and scientific research aimed at protecting and rebuilding fish stocks across the catchment. Their work includes juvenile population monitoring, adult fish counting with fish traps and counters, and habitat restoration projects throughout the river system. Supporting this work, and adhering to catch and release policies wherever requested, is an important part of fishing responsibly in the Borders today.
Brown Trout Fishing in the Scottish Borders
Brown trout are the native fish of the Borders rivers — wild, beautiful, and deeply connected to the health of the ecosystem they inhabit. Fishing for brown trout on the Yarrow, the Ettrick or the upper Tweed is one of the quiet joys of staying at The Scullery: a morning on the river, a good dry fly, and the chance of a golden-flanked wild fish rising to the surface in clear, cold water.
Unlike some parts of Scotland where trout fishing means stocked rainbow fisheries, the rivers of the Scottish Borders are wild brown trout water. These fish are part of the natural ecosystem, feeding on aquatic insects, and they require patience, good fieldcraft and a well-chosen fly.
The Brown Trout Season
The brown trout season on the rivers of the Scottish Borders runs from 1st April to 30th September. This mirrors the timing of the main insect hatches and the natural feeding patterns of the fish. Fishing is by fly only on most managed waters, and all the main associations operating on the Yarrow, Ettrick and Tweed operate a strict catch and release policy for wild trout.
The prime months for dry fly fishing tend to be May and June, when the Olive hatches bring fish freely to the surface. September offers another excellent window, with cooler temperatures and active fish ahead of the season's close.
Selkirk & District Angling Association — Ettrick and Yarrow
The SDAA offers brown trout fishing on both Ettrick Water and Yarrow Water. Yarrow Water flows directly through the valley below The Scullery — a five-minute walk down the hill from Ladhope Farmhouse — making it the most immediately accessible trout water for guests staying at the cottage. A season permit covers both waters and is available to residents and visitors alike at £15. Day permits are available at £5, with concessions for OAPs. Juniors under 16 fish free. Permits are available online or from The General Store in Selkirk Market Place.
Yarrow Water is a beautiful trout stream — intimate, clear, and set against the backdrop of the hills that inspired James Hogg and Wordsworth alike. The Yarrow can hold small wild brownies in its own right particularly up towards The Gordon. Arms — perfect for an exploratory hour with a short rod and a dry fly.
Peeblesshire Trout Fishing Association — River Tweed and Lyne Water
For anglers who want to explore the broader Tweed catchment, the Peeblesshire Trout Fishing Association (PTFA) offers access to approximately 23 miles of the River Tweed and 5 miles of the Lyne Water in the Peebles area — all within a comfortable 30-minute drive of The Scullery. The PTFA operates on a catch and release basis for all wild trout and grayling, and anglers are requested to use barbless hooks. The trout season runs from 1st April to 30th September.
The upper Tweed around Peebles is classic Border river fishing: wide, gravelly runs, deep pools under wooded banks, and good hatches of fly throughout the season. The PTFA's season tickets represent exceptional value and day tickets are available from 1st April. For the very latest on permit availability and conditions, visit www.peeblesshiretroutfishing.co.uk.
Kailzie Estate — Upper Tweed River and Loch Fishing
Located near Peebles, the Kailzie Estate offers a wonderful dual option for visiting anglers: river fishing on a private two-mile stretch of the upper Tweed, and peaceful Stillwater loch fishing on the estate's own lake. Rod hire and ghillie services are available, making this an excellent choice for less experienced anglers or those fishing with family. Loch fishing costs £26 for a half day and £30 for a full day. Open seven days a week from 9am to 5pm, with extended summer evening sessions. Booking via the estate on 07730 791865 or Fishpal.
Bowhill Lower Loch — Stocked Trout
Bowhill Estate also offers loch fishing on the Bowhill Lower Loch, which is regularly stocked with locally sourced trout. Two boats are available for hire, providing access to deeper water. The loch is open from 1st March to 31st October at £60 per boat per day, with season syndicate options also available. This is an excellent option for anglers wanting a more relaxed session in a beautiful estate setting, or for those less familiar with river fishing.
Tactics and Tips for Borders Brown Trout
Dry fly fishing is the traditional and most satisfying approach on Yarrow Water and Ettrick Water. The main hatches to watch for include:
• Large Dark Olive (March–April): The first meaningful hatch of the season, often triggering the first rises of the year.
• Blue-Winged Olive (May–September): A consistent and important hatch across the Border rivers, particularly effective in the evenings.
• Pale Morning Dun and Caenis (summer months): Smaller flies and finer tippets are needed for these delicate hatches.
• Sedges/Caddis (evening, July–September): Dusk and twilight fishing with sedge patterns can produce excellent sport, particularly on the slower stretches.
Nymph fishing with weighted patterns is effective through the middle of the day when fish are feeding sub-surface. Czech nymphing techniques, widely used by Borders anglers, are particularly effective on the faster, shallower runs.
Grayling Fishing in the Scottish Borders
The grayling is, for many anglers, the hidden gem of the Borders rivers. Known as 'the lady of the stream,' it is a fish of extraordinary beauty — silver-flanked with a great spotted dorsal fin, it rises freely to well-presented flies and fights hard on light tackle. And while salmon and trout attract the most attention on the Tweed and its tributaries, serious grayling anglers know that the Scottish Borders is home to some of the finest winter grayling fishing anywhere in Britain.
Grayling are classed as a coarse fish in Scotland, which means their season runs through the winter months when the trout season is closed — making them the perfect quarry for the angler staying at The Scullery during an autumn or winter visit.
The Grayling Season
On the rivers of the Scottish Borders, grayling can be fished year-round, but the main winter grayling season runs from 1st October through to 31st March. This is when grayling come into their own: the river is lower and clearer than in spate conditions, the fish are often holding in well-defined shoals on the gravelly runs and pools, and the challenge of presenting a nymph right on the bottom of a cold winter river is enormously satisfying.
The Selkirk & District Angling Association offers a winter grayling supplementary ticket for Ettrick Water, running from 1st January to 31st March, at just £5 (available in conjunction with a brown trout season permit, and for residents of the TD7 catchment area). The Peeblesshire Trout Fishing Association offers a combined season ticket running from 1st January to 30th September, covering both winter grayling fishing (January to March) and the trout season (April to September) on their Tweed and Lyne Water beats.
Grayling on the Upper Tweed
The River Tweed and its tributaries hold a genuinely impressive grayling population, and the Peeblesshire Trout Fishing Association water around Peebles is considered some of the very best winter grayling fishing in Scotland. The PTFA notes that the current Scottish record grayling — just over 3lb — came from the upper Tweed, and fish approaching 3.5lb are caught on these waters every year. There are even credible local reports of fish pushing 4lb.
As a general guide, a grayling of around 50cm fork length has roughly a 50/50 chance of weighing 3lb; a fish of 55cm is a potential 4lb specimen. The upper reaches around and above Peebles tend to hold fewer but larger individual fish, while the lower and wider sections carry more fish overall.
Tactics for Winter Grayling
Grayling are primarily bottom feeders, and effective grayling fishing depends on getting your flies right down to the riverbed and keeping them there for as long as possible. Specialist techniques developed specifically for this style of fishing include:
• Czech Nymphing: Short-line contact nymphing using heavy, beaded nymph patterns fished tight to the bottom. Highly effective on the faster runs and riffles of Ettrick Water and the Tweed tributaries.
• French/Euro Nymphing: A longer-leader variation allowing flies to be presented at greater distance while maintaining direct contact. Particularly useful on wider sections of the Tweed.
• Dry Fly: Grayling will occasionally rise freely during mild winter spells, particularly to small CDC patterns on flat, clear water. When they do, the sight of a large grayling sipping flies from the surface in January is an unforgettable experience.
Weighted nymph patterns in sizes 12 to 16 are the staple of grayling fishing. Popular patterns include the Hare's Ear, Pheasant Tail, Perdigon and tungsten-beaded Czech nymph variants. Barbless hooks should be used wherever possible, and all Grayling should be handled with great care — Tweed tagging studies have shown significant recaptures of individual fish, demonstrating that releasing Grayling carefully benefits the entire fishery and improves catches for all anglers.
Where to Fish for Grayling Near The Scullery
• Ettrick Water (SDAA waters): Supplementary winter grayling permits available January to March for TD7 residents. Access details and beat maps from the SDAA website at selkirk-district-angling-association.com.
• River Tweed, Peeblesshire (PTFA): Over 23 miles of water from Peebles upstream, with documented specimen grayling. Combined winter/summer season tickets available from peeblesshiretroutfishing.co.uk.
• Kailzie Estate (upper Tweed): River permits available seasonally through the estate. Ghillie guidance available for less experienced grayling anglers.
Local Fishing Clubs and Associations
The fishing heritage of the Scottish Borders runs deep, and the local angling clubs and associations that manage these waters are an essential part of that tradition. Here are the key organisations for visiting anglers:
Selkirk & District Angling Association (SDAA)
Established in 1861, the SDAA is one of the oldest angling associations in Scotland and manages salmon, sea trout, brown trout and grayling fishing on Ettrick Water and Yarrow Water. It operates a strict catch and release policy across all species and employs River Watch keepers to ensure compliance. Permits are available online at selkirk-district-angling-association.com or in person from The General Store, 36 Market Place, Selkirk. Contact: eileenhandyside@btinternet.com / mobile: 07840 194832.
Peeblesshire Trout Fishing Association (PTFA)
The PTFA manages approximately 23 miles of the River Tweed and 5 miles of the Lyne Water in the Peebles area, covering some of the finest brown trout and grayling water in Scotland. The Association operates on a catch and release basis and participates in the Tweed Foundation's annual catch monitoring programme. Season tickets, combined winter/summer tickets and day tickets are all available. Visit www.peeblesshiretroutfishing.co.uk for permit information and beat maps.
The River Tweed Commission (RTC)
The statutory authority for the entire Tweed district, the RTC was established in 1807 and operates under the Scotland Act 1998 (River Tweed) Order 2006. It is responsible for the protection and management of salmon, sea trout and other freshwater fish across the Tweed catchment, employing Fisheries Officers with enforcement powers across both Scotland and England. The RTC's jurisdiction extends 8km out to sea. Contact and information via www.rivertweed.org.uk
The Tweed Foundation
A charitable company established by the RTC in 1983, the Tweed Foundation carries out the scientific research, biological monitoring and habitat enhancement work that underpins the health of the Tweed fishery. Its work includes juvenile salmon and trout population surveys, adult fish monitoring, and an extensive programme of educational outreach through initiatives including TweedStart and Go Wild For Fish. The Foundation also organises the annual opening ceremony of the Tweed salmon season in Kelso. Find out more and donate at www.rivertweed.org.uk/tweed-foundation
Bowhill Estate (Buccleuch)
Managed by the Buccleuch Estate, Bowhill offers salmon fishing on Ettrick Water across five named beats covering 12 miles of water, as well as stocked trout fishing on the Bowhill Lower Loch. The estate office can be reached on 01750 23762 or via email at, fishingbowhill@buccleuch.com. Fishing is also bookable via Fishpal at www.fishpal.com
Kailzie Estate
Set near Peebles on the upper Tweed, Kailzie offers both river and loch fishing with the option of ghillie services and rod hire. Open seven days a week with extended summer hours. Book via www.kailzieestate.com or call 07730 791865.
Planning Your Fishing Break at The Scullery
The Scullery at Ladhope Farmhouse is ideally placed for fishing the Yarrow Valley and the wider Borders river system. The property is a beautifully restored one-bedroom holiday cottage sitting in the heart of the countryside that generations of anglers have come to the Borders to experience.
The Scullery at Ladhope Farmhouse sits in the heart of the Yarrow Valley, with Ladhope Burn running directly in front of the cottage — joined by the Hope Sike tumbling off the hill — before carrying on down through the pasture to meet Yarrow Water, just five minutes on foot from the door. Yarrow Water joins Ettrick Water around 15 minutes further down the valley at Philiphaugh, and Ettrick Water meets the Tweed on the far side of Selkirk. In other words, the entire river system that makes the Scottish Borders one of the great angling destinations in the world begins, quite literally, on the doorstep.
From salmon in the autumn to wild brown trout through the summer and grayling in the depths of winter, there is something on the water for every season and every visiting angler.
When you're not fishing, the valley offers some of Scotland's finest hill walking, a rich literary and folklore heritage, and a scattering of excellent places to eat — including The Gordon Arms at Yarrow (a historic inn that once hosted James Hogg and Sir Walter Scott) and The Hoebridge Restaurant, a local favourite for post-river suppers.
"Stay, fish, eat, sleep. Repeat. That's the Yarrow Valley way."
If you'd like to know more about The Scullery, or to check availability for your fishing break, visit www.the-scullery.com or get in touch directly. We'd love to help you plan the perfect stay.
Useful Links & Resources
• Selkirk & District Angling Association: www.selkirk-district-angling-association.com
• Peeblesshire Trout Fishing Association: www.peeblesshiretroutfishing.co.uk
• River Tweed Commission & Tweed Foundation: www.rivertweed.org.uk
• Bowhill Estate Fishing: www.bowhillhouse.co.uk/the-grounds/fishing
• Kailzie Estate Fisheries: www.kailzieestate.com/fisheries
• Fishpal Tweed (beat booking): www.fishpal.com/scotland/tweed
Comments