top of page
IMG_4320.jpeg

St Mary's Loch: A Complete Visitor's & Walker's Guide to magnificent Loch side walks

  • Writer: Neil Chalk
    Neil Chalk
  • 6 days ago
  • 10 min read
The Southern Upland Way
The Southern Upland Way links to St Mary's Loch

There is a quiet, poetic spirit that calls from the heart of the Yarrow Valley, a pull towards the still, reflective waters of St Marys Loch. Yet, the thought of a day spent in it's embrace can be clouded by practical questions: where is the best place to park, which path will lead to the most breathtaking view and Loch side walks and what if there are no facilities or phone signal?


These small uncertainties can keep us from the very peace we seek, turning a dream of tranquility into a task of logistics.


Consider this your personal invitation to unwind. This guide has been thoughtfully created to quiet those concerns, offering a clear and gentle path for your visit. Here, you will discover the most serene walking routes for every ability, the hidden viewpoints that capture the soul of the landscape, and all the practical tips you need to plan with confidence. Let us handle the details, so you can simply arrive, breathe deep, and find your own connection with this ancient, tranquil place.


The Enduring Allure of St Mary's Loch and it's Loch side walks

A view of St Mary's Loch in The Scottish Borders
St Mary's Loch

Tucked away in the quiet, poetic heart of the Yarrow Valley lies the largest natural loch in the Scottish Borders. St Mary's Loch is more than just a body of water; it is a place of profound stillness and connection, where the gentle, rolling hills cradle its dark, serene surface. For centuries, its shores have offered a sanctuary for reflection, drawing visitors into a landscape that feels both ancient and ever-present. To experience this place is to feel the rush of modern life melt away, replaced by the whisper of the wind and the vast, open sky.



A Loch Steeped in History and Legend


Carved by retreating glaciers at the end of the last Ice Age, the history of St Mary's Loch runs as deep as its waters. Its ethereal beauty has long captured the imagination of poets and writers, most notably Sir Walter Scott and James Hogg, the 'Ettrick Shepherd', who immortalised the valley in their work. Legend whispers of a chapel, its bell now resting silently on the loch floor, said to ring only when someone from the old parishes of Ettrick or Yarrow is about to pass. This rich tapestry of folklore and literary heritage gives the loch a palpable sense of history, reminding us that we are just the latest in a long line of souls to find solace on its banks.


The Spirit of the Yarrow Valley


The unique atmosphere of St Mary's Loch shifts with the seasons, yet its tranquil spirit remains constant. In summer, the sun glints on its glass-like surface, inviting you to dip your toes in its cool, clear waters. Autumn brings a palette of gold and russet to the surrounding hillsides, their colours reflected perfectly in the still loch. In winter, a crisp frost can transform the landscape into a silent, silvered world. This is a place to truly disconnect and embrace the slow, unhurried rhythm of the Borders. It offers a rare opportunity to simply be present, to watch the light change across the water, and to feel a deep, restorative connection with the enduring beauty of the natural world.



Planning Your Visit: Practical Tips for a Perfect Day


The Yarrow Valley - Photo Courtesy of Nina Davidson
The Yarrow Valley - Photo Courtesy of Nina Davidson

The journey to St Mary's Loch is as much a part of the experience as the swim itself. The preparation for your day should be unhurried, allowing you to fully embrace the quiet, restorative spirit of the Yarrow Valley. A little thoughtful planning ensures your time here is spent in serene connection with the landscape, not worrying about practicalities.


Getting There and Parking


The main approach is via the A708, a beautifully scenic road that unfurls through the valley, connecting the towns of Moffat and Selkirk. This drive is a true pleasure, with the landscape shifting from rolling hills to the dramatic, open expanse of the loch. For satellite navigation, the postcode TD7 5LH will guide you to The Glen Cafe area. However, it is wise to consult a physical map beforehand, as signal can be intermittent.

Key parking areas are located near the historic Tibbie Shiels Inn at the loch’s southern end, and further along at The Glen Cafe. During peak summer weekends, these spots can fill quickly. We recommend arriving early to secure a peaceful place and enjoy the soft morning light on the water.


Facilities and What to Bring


While facilities are minimal, reflecting the loch’s wild character, you will find a welcome haven at The Glen Cafe, which offers warm drinks and food (please check for seasonal opening times). For the most current details on local amenities, the official St Mary's Loch visitor information from South of Scotland Destination Alliance, is an excellent resource. Public toilets are also situated near the cafe.


To ensure you are comfortable and prepared, we suggest bringing:

  • Sturdy footwear for walking along the stony shoreline.

  • Waterproofs and warm layers, as the weather can change in an instant.

  • A flask of hot tea or coffee for a post-swim warm-up.

  • Snacks and sufficient water for your visit.

  • A physical map as a reliable backup to your digital devices.

Embrace the opportunity to disconnect; mobile signal in the valley is notoriously unreliable. To experience true solitude, consider a visit on a quiet weekday in late spring or during the crisp, golden light of autumn, when the surrounding hills are at their most poetic.


The Best St Mary's Loch Walks for Every Pace


To truly connect with the quiet, poetic spirit of the Yarrow Valley, one must walk its paths. The landscape surrounding St Mary's Loch is a tapestry of rolling hills and serene water, offering trails that invite you to unwind at your own pace. Whether you seek a gentle meander or an invigorating climb, there is a walk here that will deepen your sense of place and calm.


The Loch of the Lowes Circular: A Gentle Stroll


Perfect for a slow morning or an outing with family, this tranquil walk traces the edge of the smaller, connected Loch of the Lowes. The path is well-surfaced and largely flat, making it wonderfully accessible.

  • Distance: 1.5 miles (2.5 km)

  • Time: 45-60 minutes

  • Difficulty: Easy

The route’s highlight is the Scottish Wildlife Trust hide, a peaceful haven for observing ospreys in season and other birdlife. As you wander, pause to admire the beautiful views that open up across the narrows back towards the expansive waters of St Mary's Loch.



Map of The Ring of The Loch, St Mary's Loch, Scottish Borders


St Mary's Loch Full Circuit: A Classic Day Walk


For those wishing to fully immerse themselves in the landscape, the classic circuit is an unforgettable experience. This popular route combines sections of quiet roadside walking with grassy tracks and shoreline paths, allowing you to appreciate the loch from every angle.

  • Distance: 7 miles (11 km)

  • Time: 3-4 hours

  • Difficulty: Moderate

The southern shore offers the best spots for a secluded picnic on a shingle beach. For a detailed route map and description, the guide to the St Mary's Loch circular walk on Walkhighlands is an indispensable resource. This walk requires a reasonable level of fitness but rewards every step with sublime views.


Climbing Bowerhope Law: For Panoramic Views


For the more adventurous soul, the steep but deeply rewarding climb up Bowerhope Law promises the finest views in the valley. The ascent is a challenge, but the summit offers a breathtaking perspective that is truly worth the effort.

  • Distance: 2.5 miles (4 km) return

  • Time: 2-3 hours

  • Difficulty: Strenuous

Starting from the southern shore, the path climbs sharply through bracken and heather. This is a walk for more experienced hikers with sturdy footwear and appropriate gear. From the top, the entire valley unfolds below you—a magnificent panorama of the twin lochs nestled amongst the ancient, rolling Border hills.


Bowerhope Law - Courtesy of Rob_ert
Bowerhope Law - Courtesy of Rob_ert

Beyond the Walk: Other Ways to Experience the Loch


While the paths that trace its shores offer beautiful perspectives, the true spirit of St Marys Loch reveals itself on the water and in the quiet moments of stillness. Beyond the walk, there are countless ways to find a deeper connection with this timeless landscape, from the exhilarating chill of a wild swim to the patient art of angling.


Wild Swimming and Watersports


For the brave, immersing yourself in the loch's cool, clear waters is an unforgettable experience. The water is bracingly cold even in summer, so a wetsuit is highly recommended for comfort and safety. We strongly advise using a brightly coloured tow float and never swimming alone. The pebbly beaches near the roadside offer gentle entry points. The loch is also home to the St Mary's Loch Sailing Club, which welcomes visitors and offers a hub for sailing, kayaking, and paddleboarding on these serene waters.


Fishing and Angling


The loch has long been a sanctuary for anglers, offering a peaceful escape and the chance to cast a line for its famed wild brown trout, perch, and pike. Fishing is by permit only, which can be obtained from the St Mary's Angling Club. The tranquil banks provide numerous spots for a quiet day's fishing, allowing you to simply sit and soak in the profound calm of the valley as you wait for a bite.


Photography and Stargazing


The landscape here is a photographer’s dream, its mood shifting with the light. For the most evocative images, visit during the golden hours of sunrise or sunset when soft light spills over the surrounding hills. A classic viewpoint is from the A708, looking down its length. As dusk settles, the magic continues. The valley’s profound lack of light pollution unveils a breathtaking canopy of stars, a truly humbling sight. Stay nearby and experience the valley's dark skies.


Dark Skies - The Yarrow Valley

A Base for Your Lochside Adventures: The Scullery


After a day spent embracing the wild, elemental beauty of the water, the journey back should be just as soulful. The drive from the shores of St Mary's Loch is a short, scenic meander through the Yarrow Valley, a landscape that inspired poets and dreamers. As the rolling hills pass by, you can look forward to returning not just to a place to stay, but to a sanctuary designed for rest and reflection, a place to truly absorb the day's adventures.

To truly immerse yourself in the quiet magic of this region, consider a stay that matches its tranquil spirit. The Scullery offers a restorative haven, perfectly positioned for your explorations.


The Scullery - Garden Gate

Your Private Yarrow Valley Hideaway


Tucked away from the world, The Scullery is a one-bedroom boutique hideaway, eloquently designed for comfort and calm. Imagine returning from your adventures, peeling off your walking boots, and sinking into a sumptuous sofa before the gentle warmth of a cup of coco. Here, peace and privacy are paramount, creating the perfect, intimate space to unwind and connect after a day spent in the bracing waters of the loch.


Embrace the 'Slow Stay' Philosophy


We believe that to truly experience this ancient landscape, you need to slow down and listen. A 'Slow Stay' at The Scullery invites you to do just that. It’s an opportunity to linger over your morning coffee, to take the unhurried path, and to connect deeply with your surroundings. Our hideaway is more than a base; it is an integral part of your Yarrow Valley story, a space that encourages you to breathe deeply and live presently.

Let your exploration of the loch be bookended by moments of quiet luxury. Come and discover the art of 'Coorie'—the Scottish practice of finding contentment in cosy, restorative surroundings. Extend your adventure, immerse yourself in the valley's rhythm, and make The Scullery your own private sanctuary.


Find your calm and plan your stay at the-scullery.com.


Your Yarrow Valley Story Awaits


As the light shifts over the water and the rolling hills stand silent, the enduring magic of the Yarrow Valley becomes clear. From the soul-stirring poetry of its ancient walking trails to the profound tranquility found simply by its shores, the beauty of St Mary's loch is both grand and intimate. It is a place that invites you to find your own rhythm, to breathe deeply, and to reconnect with the quiet, restorative power of the Scottish Borders.


Eloquently designed for comfort, calm, and connection, it is more than just a place to stay. It is a space to truly unwind and absorb the peace of the valley.




The Scullery - Boutique Living Room


Frequently Asked Questions


Can you swim in St Mary's Loch?


Yes, you can indeed swim in the serene, deep waters of St Mary's Loch. It is a celebrated spot for wild swimming, offering a profound connection to the landscape. The water is refreshingly cold, even in summer, so a wetsuit is highly recommended for comfort and safety. We suggest finding a quiet pebbled beach to enter the water gently, allowing yourself to acclimatise to the crisp, clear embrace of the loch and the tranquility of the surrounding hills. As with all Wild Swimming, please do your research and stay safe. Don't swim alone, particularly in this remote part of Scotland.


Is St Mary's Loch dog-friendly?


The area around the loch is wonderfully welcoming to four-legged companions, making it a perfect escape for you and your dog. The vast shoreline and surrounding paths offer ample space for exploration. We simply ask that you keep your dog under close control, particularly near grazing sheep, to respect the local farmland and wildlife. Sharing a quiet walk or a paddle along the water's edge with a faithful friend is one of the valley's simple, heartfelt pleasures.


What is the history of the Tibbie Shiels Inn?


The Tibbie Shiels Inn, nestled between St Mary's Loch and the Loch of the Lowes, holds a rich, poetic history. Named after its long-serving and charismatic landlady, Isabella 'Tibbie' Shiel, it became a cherished meeting place for literary figures in the 19th century. The likes of Sir Walter Scott and James Hogg, the 'Ettrick Shepherd', would gather here, their conversations echoing the valley's own ancient stories. Though now closed, its spirit remains woven into the local landscape.


Are there any cafes or pubs right next to St Mary's Loch?


Just a stone's throw from the water's edge, you will find the charming Glen Cafe. It is a welcoming and unassuming spot, perfect for warming up after a brisk swim or a long walk. Here, you can enjoy a simple, hearty lunch or a comforting cup of tea and a scone, while gazing out over the tranquil loch. It provides a moment of gentle pause, a place to refuel and reflect on the quiet beauty of your surroundings.


Is there a good mobile phone signal at St Mary's Loch?


You will find that mobile phone signal around the loch is intermittent at best, and often completely absent. We see this not as an inconvenience, but as a gentle invitation to truly disconnect and immerse yourself in the present moment. It is an opportunity to put your phone away, listen to the whisper of the wind across the water, and embrace the profound peace of the Yarrow Valley. A true digital detox awaits you here.


How long does it take to walk all the way around St Mary's Loch?


To walk the full circuit around St Marys Loch is a beautiful undertaking of around seven and a half miles. Following the quiet roadside path, the walk allows for uninterrupted views of the water and hills. At a leisurely, unhurried pace, allowing time to pause and absorb the scenery, you should allow for three to four hours. It’s a journey that encourages you to slow down and match your rhythm to the gentle pace of the valley itself.


Comments


bottom of page